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How to crack a SentrySafe – dual lock safe

What’s up YouTube this is Jacob from International Precision Engineering. Today I thought I would show you what’s inside this safe, how it works, talk about what the mechanisms are. If you knew what was inside it, how you could beat it, pick it, crack it, whatever you want to call it. The story on this safe is a little bit interesting. And some good news for you guys, I’ve been poached! As you’ve probably seen there’s a lot of buzz around Intel – well… we negotiated and I no longer consult, even if I wanted to I couldn’t. It’s gonna be a lot a lot better for you and I could do a lot more projects like this that might be more interesting to a YouTube croud. Anyways – We bought a house here in Phoenix and this safe came in it. I ripped it off the wall because I couldn’t find any information on it. I don’t even know how much it’s worth, where you would have gotten it, how much it would have cost. Especially for this company Century, which is in every Home Depot. I mean this is kind of the go-to cheap safe for homeowners, so it’s amazing that I can’t find any information on this model. The only thing that I was able to find was an in-wall safe, that would let go behind a picture, that has this dual lock – So it has this key to open it instead of a handle – and it has a combination lock. Like I said the only thing I could find was the in-wall safe and even with that, nobody showed pictures of what’s behind it, the lock mechanism, absolutely nothing. So I even to do the “put-your-ear-up-to-it and-spin-the-dial” and things. You know, I’m not a locksmith, so in the end it’s probably a one-hundred to three-hundred dollar safe. So I just ripped it off the wall, and luckily it wasn’t into any studs. They just had it into the drywall, but they screwed it into a finished cabinet that was in the closet. Not only did I ruin the wall on the back because I couldn’t get to cut the screws, it ruined the paneling and the whole shelf. It’s kind of disappointing that they didn’t just put a post-it note with the combination. Anyways, Bonus to you guys – Let’s cut it in half and check it out! All right here’s what’s inside! We got the key, which directly actuates the bolt. We’ve got the combination lock that turns your dials [gates], and what’s removed here is this little tin shield that’s really just for aesthetics. If I were going to crack this lock, after looking at it, I would 1) drill a hole here, 2) drill a hole through the tin cover and 3) pull this pin out. Then what would happen is the bolt would come out far enough to go past the … I don’t know what they’re called … the disks here [gates]. 1) The bolt would come out, 2) it would slide out, and 3) the door would open . All I would have to do is, 1) know where this pin was, 2) I drill two holes, 3) pull the pin and 4) the door would open. Even if you didn’t have the key, because the key actuates through this little cam thing and if this came out, it would just open even without the key. So really having having drawings or images of this safe you could in twenty minutes, if you had access to the top, you could you could defeat this safe. But again, like I said, I couldn’t even find any information on the safe whatsoever. So the likelihood of finding drawings or what mechanism are in the safe is highly unlikely. Zooming in on the combination lock you can see that the back wheel is connected directly to the dial. These pins are what turns the separate wheels so you can move the pin around to change the combination. There’s probably instructions how to do that, which I don’t have! What you have to do, for example, to get the safe to open is line up all the deep slots … like this. Now you can see – all three slots are in a line and the bolt can slamming in. Looking at this closer there’s a couple interesting features: 1) this back wheel is bigger than the other two, so if you come in here and turn this and then tension the key and try and listen for the pin to drop, the only thing you’re going to feel is each of these three slots in the back wheel. You could feel this by just tensioning the key. The only plausible combinations for that last wheel are each of these three spots. So now if there’s a hundred points on the dial, it takes the it [the combination] down to 3 possible numbers. Another thing you can do is turn the dial and feel how much play there is and find out that -oh- I’m looking at about five digits on the combination of play. Now each of the hundred spots on my dial really turn into twenty right. So I can be plus or minus two and a half off and still have this work. Another thing you’ll notice is these are tapered on the correct ones to help you out and they’re not over here so there’s a lot more play when the combination is right then when you’re just at a false. Because this wheel the back wheels bigger you can’t really sit there and listen for pins to drop like you could in a key lock or things like that so having knowing that if there’s 20 possible combinations on the first two numbers 20 times 20 is 400 – so 400 possible combinations and 3 on the back so 1200 possible combinations to open lock. Now I could probably run through that in a couple hours just doing it. The problem is you have to clear the lock every time. You have to come back, you have to pass the second number, and if you do it wrong it’s, well… you won’t know, so you really got to be good and patient, take your time – But you could do it, you could definitely do it!

34 thoughts on “How to crack a SentrySafe – dual lock safe

  1. a lot of sentry safes are hard to get info on but part of that is sentry their self they pute out little info and they try to shutdown the info that is out their in order to make it hart for people to look up how to get in one.

  2. just noticed the serial number is on the side the little sticker the info on their is all you need to call sentry and get a the combo you just call them tell them you are the owner they will request sometimes a copy of your license with your sig be sent in also may need a notarepublics stamp but that is only a few dollars. some banks will do it free if you have a account.

  3. I have an older model Sentry safe with key & electronic pad. (Smaller safe)
    I couldn't open it.
    I found the secret to opening it. You just have to bang on the top of the safe, near the front and just turn the key right.
    Banging on the safe makes the solenoid inside disengage the lock, which opens the safe. After that, just press the button on the inside of the door to reset password code. It worked for me. I was very surprised!
    I didn't figure the secret out, thought. I saw two other videos on Youtube that briefly mention the flaw to these safes.

  4. Thanks for the video, I like the way you made a cutaway. I work as a locksmith, and I'm planning to make some cutaway safes for customers to compare.

    Just so you know, the openings on the wheels are called gates (and false gates). The way you discussed figuring out the combination is called manipulation. Manipulation is often used by locksmiths who don't want to damage the safe they're opening.

  5. …hi! i have a safe with a similar lock on the video….single dial but i forgot the combination…can you teach me how to go about it

  6. This is my Mother's safe and I don't know the number, she has died. Do I try to change the lock if I don't know the number?

  7. Somebody erased my comment. Maybe because I revealed too much information. I wont repeat what I said. If you were to sell the cut-away safe in the video how much would you want for the whole thing including shipping? In USA dollars please.

  8. Just watched the video. For future reference, the disks are called the gates and the bar that drops into the gates is called the fence. I find this safe to be very low security because the last gate seems to have just one false gate. I think I broke into one of these by just applying pressure on the gates with the fence and turn the wheel until I found the gates and the fence dropped.

  9. This safe has won the best safe for the year you must see

  10. The "tin shield" is not for aesthetics… the tin cover plays a very important roll of preventing the things stored inside the safe from being able to move into the lock's mechanical movements which could obviously cause a jam and then wouldn't be able to dial the combination and release the latch.

  11. You were very much on the right track. The only part you missed was the correlation between the wheel gates, the stump and the key position on the outside of the safe. By attaching a thick wire (piece of coat hanger etc) approx 6 inches long to the key, you magnify the turn of the key. The key turns slightly more, the further the stump moves into the wheel / gate. Mark positions on the safe door corresponding to the end of the wire. By noting the differences at various wheel positions – 2, 4, 6, 8 etc., you will easily find the numbers for the three gates. Then by trial and error you will find the combination. The time to open this safe should be 5 to 15 minutes. Some of these safes have a handle instead of a key hole. In this case attach the wire to the handle!

  12. Sentry safes are not really that secure. The biggest kudo to them is that they are a very good safe to keep documents in should you have a fire.
    And they do keep out the small time thief.

  13. This Sentry safe has direct entry gates and the fence is attached to the handle or in this case the cross-lock.

    By attaching a long needle to the handle and a graph on the door, then applying pressure to the handle (or key) advancing the dial/wheels in increments of two numbers you can measure the distance and determine the combination. The furtherst the needle swings to the right is a true gate.

    The second MOE, Method of Entry is drilling a hole a quarter inch above the 9 o'clock position right into the outer dial ring, then scoping and aligning the wheels with a 70° scope.

  14. I would like to clear up the age old belief that safe manipulation works by listening "to tumblers click".There are no 'tumblers' in a safe lock and nothing 'clicks' into place.

    Older, antique safes like a Hall have a weigted fence which willl fall into the gates and drive cam, clearing the passage of the bolt work which is attached to the handle. In this case the drive cam is rather passive since it is not used to actuate (throw) the lock bolt.

    A spring loaded lever lock like a Sargent & Greenleaf or LaGuard is what most modern safes have installed They are also used in all bank vaults but with four wheels instead.On those the nose of the fence drops into the drive cam and by turning the dial the fence lever retracts the lock bolt.

    Both systems can be defeated by contact manipulation, meaning that you measure the left and right contact points of the nose dropping into the drive cam which is mounted at the back of the wheel pack. The nose of the fence will drop all the way into the drive cam when all gates are aligned underneath. If there is a gate under the fence it will drop very, very minimal which you can read on the dial by measuring the minute change of distances between numbers on the dial by slightly touching the left then the right side of the nose with the drive cam. That's why many professional safe technicians use a magnifying glass above the dial and look straight down to see those minute changes. That process you never see in movies.

    Manipulation is using sight and touch only. A sound amplifier is only needed when the contact points can't hardly be felt anymore because the lock is too far away from the dial due to thicker doors. A good safe technician can open a three wheel lock in about 20 minutes.

  15. I’m a fucking god I found out the last digit and when she locked it she only turned it once and I turned it back to last number and it opened hell yea

  16. "Cracking a safe" means to crack the code & OPEN IT WITHOUT DAMAGING THE SAFE. Cutting & drilling isn't "cracking". Ugh.

  17. I agree with Aaron – it would have been easier to manipulate the dial to find the gates, especially on a safe of this type. It's not that difficult. Finding the 3rd, direct drive wheel combination number, even with false gates on it, is easy. The true gate is wider and you'll get noticeably greater variation of dial play between gate contact edges and the fence when it's in the true gate as the false gates are narrower. Search YouTube for demos on finding the numbers for the second and first wheels which are done by measuring bolt handle deflection for every fifth digit on the dial (trying 0, 5, 10, 15 . . .) and charting bolt handle deflection. For a 100 digit dial, you're into the safe in under 50 tries with the first ten or so (depending on false gates) going very quickly, and the 20 after that for the 2nd wheel number not taking all that long. With more expensive safes using higher precision mechanical combination lock components the manual cracking process is the same but requires better feel and more finesse (and experience), and it may require trying every third digit for the 2nd and 1st wheels (lower tolerance slop in the gates). Going up from there with better mechanical locks and the finesse and feel required goes up. Spending a bit of time searching for mechanical dial combination safe cracking methods for an inexpensive consumer safe like this one and using them would have saved an immense amount of time, effort and cost rebuilding the closet interior you demolished.

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