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Nintendo Wii U Controller Tear Down, Cracked Screen Fix, Button Cleaning. No Fluff.



Alright, today I’m going to show you how
to fix and repair almost anything on the Wii U controller. We’re going to start off by
taking out the battery. It’s underneath two phillips head screws underneath the back
battery door. Take that off and then just unplug the battery from the main controller.
They do sell bigger batteries. I’ll link those in the video description below. It gives
you a whole lot more play time so you can check those out. And then there’s a bunch
of little black plastic tabs covering all the screw holes right here. And underneath
all these little tabs is a screw that’s called a tri wing. So you can take that and
unscrew all the little screws and then the back plastic bit just pops right up. There
is a little plug holding the back plastic part to the main board so you’re just going
to grab that and unplug it. Pretty straight forward. And then you can see that all the
little buttons…so we’ve got the triggers right here that just pop up and out. Same
thing with this other side. They’re just kind of stuck down in a little clasp you just
have to wiggle free. And same thing with these top buttons; the left and the right just slide
down the little grooves. And then right here, this is the little contraption that controls
the majority of the buttons. So there are a bunch of screws holding that in place. And
you can see this little ribbon cable that you have to lift up the latch and unlatch
it. So if your buttons stop working, most likely you’ll need to replace this guy right
here or just the ribbon cables depending on what they’re selling. Now the little stick
that you’re going to be playing with, these break a lot and so the whole pad comes up
with the circuit board and just plugs into the main board that you can see right here.
So if it ever stops working or if it gets stuck or broken, just buy a little contraption
and plug that in and you’ll be good to go. Now the bottom sync button as well as the
port is plugged into the main board as well as that little ribbon cable connector. So
I’m going to unplug both of those things and then wiggle it free from the little white
bracket that it’s in. It’s got the little hooks on the side there. Now that’s free.
Then there are four screws holding on the main board to the controller. So once those
are done you have a few more power cable connections and ribbon cable connections to undo. Lift
up the little clasp, pull the ribbon cable out. Lift up the other clasp, pull that ribbon
cable out. It’s all kinds of fun. Then I’m going to take apart the other side button
control panel I guess you can call that, just so I have more room to work with. You don’t
necessarily need to do this if you’re just getting in to replace the screen or something.
And then just unplug that other joy stick. Get rid of a few more tiny connections. And
this one’s pretty important so lift up at two points on that little latch so you don’t
break it. If you lift up at one point it might be too much pressure and it might snap it.
Anyway, keep on working with all the little connections that are attaching the main board
to the controller. Going to pull those loose. Just working my way around the outside. Now
that releases most of the things attached to the main board. There are two sensors that
are still attached up at the top, but you need to lift up the main board in order to
get to them. Now remember what…remember the orientation of the wire as you lift this
out. So right now the wire is facing in towards the board. And then on this other side, the
white wire, it’s still facing the inside of the board as well. So untangle that and
then lift it up from the slot. You can see right here where I take apart the volume slider
switch, remember that when you put that into the mother board it has to fit on the groove
of the little slider as well, otherwise your volume will stop working. And there’s the
main board. You can see right there the camera as well on the backside. And then right here
you can see the little pad, so if you ever need to take that apart to clean it there’s
a little notch in the corner there that aligns where it needs to be. And now for the screen
bracket. So there are four Philips head screws around the outside of this that you’re going
to unscrew. And the plastic screen bracket just kind of keeps the screen in place. So
once those screws are undone that’ll come loose and you’ll be able to pry up the screen.
Be super careful while you’re doing this; only pry up on the metal frame of it and don’t
pull up on the screen in any way that will break the LCD underneath. Now when you’re
replacing the screen it could be one of two things: it might come with the digitizer,
which is the outer part, or it might just come with the LCD underneath. So you might
need to separate that little contraption in order to finish the repair. But it’s not
too bad; there are just little clasps that hold the two sections together. Now the buttons
are kind of fun. Remember that game you used to play as a kid where like if the plastic
square wouldn’t fit in the circle hole and the circle wouldn’t fit in the square hole?
This is kind of the same thing. Each of these little buttons has its own little notch so
one button won’t fit in the other button’s hole if that makes sense. It’s kind of fun.
Interesting way to keep all the buttons in the right spot. Anyway if you have any questions
be sure to leave them in the comments below. Don’t forget to “like” if this video
helped you and don’t forget to subscribe. It really does mean a lot. Hope to see you
around. Thank you for watching!

23 thoughts on “Nintendo Wii U Controller Tear Down, Cracked Screen Fix, Button Cleaning. No Fluff.

  1. Hi I have a question. I plugged in my Wii U and forgot Smash 4 was in it, and my Gamepad is acting up and I don't want to pay Nintendo again but the menu scrolls on its own and it makes itself a controller, will tearing it apart to clean it help? Or should I just buy a new Gamepad? Thank you.

  2. jesus christ..
    i feel like they make that complicated just to mess with us
    but thanks for the video

  3. I know this is a 5-year-old video, and you probably don't check these comments, but, in theory, would it be possible to install some sort of "pass-through" or "splitter" module that would take the video feed and send it to both the built-in screen and a mounted HDMI port?

  4. Very good video Jerry, although it didn't help me due to the peculiar design of my gamepad. The speakers are soldered onto the main board on both sides and I believe the only workaround is to remove and resolder… something i don't feel competent doing. The speakers also seem to be glued in. oh well, unlucky me haha.

  5. Thank you for this video. I ordered the screen and it took me 10 min to fix something Nintendo wanted 100$ for. Really appreciate the time you took to make this. 20$ fix and some patience

  6. Good enough for me. Repair shop claimed $85 to fix my gamepad. Amazingly, that’s the same cost to buy a used one. I decided to buy the buttons I needed and the screwdriver to open my gamepad. I watched your video and replaced my buttons for a grand total of $10. All fixed. I can now enjoy playing again.

  7. Hi, I have a question, My gamepad only vibrates in the left side, is it normal. I ask yoy this because the gamepad felt on the floor and I have noticed that only the left side vibrates. Thanks for your time

  8. thank you for this great video. replaced a broken screen with a working and gamepad looks like new now. have a great day.

  9. Have a problem. I think. The 13 silver squares on the back part. They're dirty but it's sticky. Like it's suppose to be. How do I clean that?

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